Jet lag is a funny thing. You’d think after an exhausting first day, we’d wake up bright and early, ready to conquer the city. But no. Day 2 of our Scottish adventure started at a leisurely 10 AM, because our bodies refused to acknowledge local time.
But when we finally stepped out, what a sight! The golden sun was beaming down, the sky was an uninterrupted stretch of blue—no clouds, no drizzle, no reminders that we were in Scotland. Naturally, we took this as a sign to head straight to Edinburgh Castle.
Storming the Castle (With eTickets, Of Course)
Tickets stashed in our mobile handsets, we arrived at the castle, only to find it absolutely teeming with tourists. Everyone and their granny seemed to have the same idea as us. To make sense of it all, we got ourselves an audio guide and set off exploring.
First stop—the canons. Big, imposing, and impressive, they made us appreciate medieval defense tactics (and feel grateful that we weren’t on the receiving end of them).
Then, we wandered into the prison area. The sight of hammock beds and cramped, grim conditions made us shudder. The POWs here had it rough—makes you rethink all those times you complained about a lumpy mattress.
Figure 1: Chapel, Edinburgh Castle
Climbing up the hill, we found the chapel, a quiet little retreat amidst the stone and history. From there, we made our way to see the royal jewels, scepter, and sword —proper shiny, proper regal.
Then we walked over to the the great hall, which was completed in 1511 for King James IV. Giant beams rest on stones carved with heads and symbols such as the thistle – a badge of Scotland. Grand banquets and state events took place in the Great Hall.
Next, we walked through the royal apartments, imagining what it must have been like to live here centuries ago. We wrapped up our castle visit by soaking in the history of Scotland’s battles and sieges from 1100-1330. A proper history lesson, minus the pop quiz.
Hungry Times & A Cozy Café
Vanya was hungry from all the walking, so we stopped for a quick bite of a mushroom pizza slice at the Red Cafe inside the Castle.
Figure 2: Scottish Haggis Makar Mash
Exiting the palace, we went on to the famous scottish restaurant: Makar Mash, where we snagged window seats. We ordered roasted chestnut and cheddar cheese mash haggis and lion’s mane breaded mushroom and smoked bean mash haggis —a mouthful to say and an even better mouthful to eat.
With our hunger sated, we took a shortcut down the mountain to The Milkman, a cozy little café where we indulged in lattes, pastries, and shortbreads. Everything was super yummy and gave us the sugar boost we needed for the next leg of our journey.
A Picturesque Walk to Dean Village
Fueled by caffeine and sugar, we set off on a 2-mile walk through parks and charming Edinburgh streets, heading towards Dean Village.
Along the way, we passed Wojtek the Bear, a remarkable and endearing figure, holds a special place in both Polish and Scottish history. During World War II, he became an honorary member of the Polish Army’s 22nd Artillery Supply Company. Adopted as a cub, Wojtek grew alongside his fellow soldiers and even contributed to their wartime efforts.
Dean Village itself was like a fairytale—cobblestone paths, quaint houses, and a peaceful Leith river winding through it. We took tons of pictures and then strolled alongside the river for about a mile, soaking in the tranquility.
We finally exited Dean Village around 4 PM and walked to Haymarket Tram Station, hopping on a tram to Princes Street. From there, it was time to head back up the hill into Old Town.
Exploring the Old Town & Victoria Street
Figure 3: Elephant House Cafe, Victoria Street
We climbed the Mylind Steps to Victoria Street, stopping by the famous Harry Potter store and the Elephant House Café, where J.K. Rowling wrote parts of the series. It was a proper pilgrimage for any Potterhead.
Real Mary King’s Close
By 4:40 PM, we arrived at The Real Mary King’s Close for a fascinating underground tour. For an hour, we wandered through tunnels leading to various rooms uncovered in excavations, stepping back into the 16th-19th centuries.
Some rather grim facts we learned:
- Coming from the French expression, “Prenez garde a l’eau!” - meaning literally ‘beware of the water’ - gardyloo was the phrase shouted from the upper floors of tenement buildings by residents as they emptied their chamber pots from the windows above. If you weren’t quick on your feet, well… unlucky for you!
- The term Black Plague came from how people’s hands and fingernails turned black from the disease.
- The bubonic plague was curable if the skin pustules were punctured and seared off—boosting survival odds by 50%. But if left untreated? You’d be gone in 48 hours.
- The plague was caused by Yersinia pestis bacteria on fleas that lived on rats. When the rats died, the bacteria needed new hosts—humans.
- Miasma protection dress (the eerie beaked plague doctor outfit) actually worked! It had waxed trousers, a nose covering inspired by Ravens, and waxed boots, which helped protect the doctors.
- Queen Mary of Scots came to Edinburgh for just one night—only to be imprisoned in Mary King’s Close.
- The Royal Exchange was built on top of the closes (old alleyways) to hold markets inside buildings. But people loved their outdoor markets, so it never really took off.
- The last house we visited was owned by a Saw Doctor, whose bathroom walls were covered in green parisian (arsenic-laced) paint—a toxic design choice.
Exiting the Castle & Holyrood
We finally exited around 6 PM, making our way down the Royal Mile to Holyrood Palace. It was closed by the time we arrived, but we managed to snap some nice pictures from the outside.
A Sunset Hike & Panoramic Views
Figure 4: Cemetery on way to Calton Hill
Determined to make the most of the remaining daylight, we hiked up Calton Hill, passing through the cemetery and Regent Walk.
The reward? A stunning view of the city and a peek at the mini Acropolis. Panoramic pictures were taken, and for a moment, Edinburgh looked like a city straight out of mythology.
Dinner at Maki & Ramen
After all that walking, it was time for food. We made our way to Maki & Ramen, where we ordered Ramens and Yakisoba.
Verdict? Meh. It was okay, but nothing mind-blowing like the Bay Area. Maybe our taste buds were just spoiled after all the amazing food we’d had so far.
Back to Base
With full stomachs and tired legs, we made our way back to the hotel, wrapping up another action-packed day in Edinburgh. The golden sun, the deep dive into history, and the breathtaking city views made it a day well spent.